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How Balans, the best of the Soho restaurants, is getting even better
Soho institution Balans, one of the best Soho restaurants, is finally realising how good it is – Adam Bloodworth meets the founder
David Taylor is the sort of restaurateur who has no idea how good his restaurant is. You may not either: but Balans on Old Compton Street is open all night on Fridays and Saturdays, so you can get a lamb shoulder at 4am, served to you by a warm-hearted throng of staff, some who’ve been working there 20 years. “When are last orders?” I asked naively on my first visit when the clock had chimed well into the bleary hours. “For you, we serve until anytime,” one male waiter flirtatiously replied. I was around 20, and that comment was one of the earliest, most formative, flirtations with another man that I’d had.
It’s not that Balans is overtly gay – but as one of only a handful of Soho institutions that opened in the 1980s that’s still in operation, it has simply b